The surest method of stocking up on worms is your own breeding. Ten, who has the right conditions can become their breeder without major investments and hardships. Joint ventures of many interested persons can be advised. About that, that breeding is not too troublesome and easy, let us be convinced by the following data:
Rosewoods (and earthworms in general) belong to two-sex animals, which means, that each individual has equally female, and male sexual organs. The eggs are laid in a cocoon. Hatching takes place after 2-3 weeks, in an amount even 20 pieces, which ripen over the course 2-3 months. Reaching sexual maturity can be observed after the occurrence of the so-called. saddles – a series of easily noticeable thicker rings in front of the body. The desired size of lollipops does not reach the desired size until 5-6 month.
A box for breeding loths, preferably wooden, can be of any dimensions. Its depth, however, must be limited (50-60 Cm). The perforated bottom should be secured with a relatively dense and strong plastic net. The chest should be placed on an elevation (np. made of bricks) so, that there is a possibility of ventilation from below. Its exterior can be preserved with a suitable agent (tar, tar, color), the inside can be waxed. The litter should consist of: 1/3 ordinary land, 1/3 well-fermented horse manure and 1/3 dry leaves. At the bottom of the box, you can arrange some shells of clay pots, however, when arranging individual layers of bedding, sprinkle them with oat flakes and coffee grounds, which apart from the nutritional value also has this advantage, that it is a disinfectant. Do not tamp the arranged layers. After sinking into the litter of lollipops (60-100 pieces), cover the box with a sack cloth and sprinkle it every time 2-3 weeks with standing water with the addition of milk. Place the chest in a secluded place - yes, so that the temperature remains there as far as possible 18-22 °C, suitable for reproduction and development of grubs. During the breeding period, it should be supervised, that the litter is sufficiently moist (however not constantly wet) and that the worms have enough food to eat. There is no trouble with feeding them, because common worms eat not only kitchen waste, but also with waste flour, corn, pellets, apples, coffee grounds and t. (they don't eat salty bread). If we have the opportunity to invest in such breeding, we can successfully use good quality protein and oily food mixed with carbohydrate food as feed. The box should be turned upside down once a month, which will avoid excessive compaction of the litter.
It is important to observe the appropriate environmental humidity. It is optimal then, when a little water can be squeezed out of a handful of litter. The deworms themselves are the best indicator of the degree of humidity: if they are at a depth of 15-18 cm, we can be calm – the humidity is correct, if, however, they focus on the bottom, the environment is too dry and you need to spray more intensively, if, in turn, they crowd on the surface – should be moisturized more sparingly.
As a rule, reproduction takes place after two weeks and even growth can be expected 30 individuals on 100 cm² of the area.
Even simpler and more accessible is the cultivation of grubs in ground pits. In the garden it is enough to dig 60-70 centimeter bottom, and reinforce its walls with brick above the ground (or the like) a wall in height 10-15 cm after it, to reduce rainwater runoff to the bottom. The bottom should be covered with a simple roof. The principle of breeding in the pit is the same as in the chest.
3 thoughts on “How to set up a grub breeding?”
nice site and looks aesthetically pleasing.
I have a question, this kennel in the pit must be lined with some kind of mesh on the underside, or foil?
“the bottom should be secured with a relatively dense and strong plastic mesh”
Is it possible to use a bucket instead of a chest and melt the hole from the bottom or is it better to invest?
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